A TASTE OF SAN JUAN

We left the Sheraton by taxi at about 6:30 PM; headed for our intended, well researched, and recommended restaurant destination: Casita Miramar.  However, if there is one thing that I’ve learned about traveling, one must remain flexible.  Casita Miramar was closed.  Our taxi driver, Armando, suspected that it wasn’t “late” enough.

So…. “Armando, any suggestions?”

“Where were you headed after dinner?”

“We had hoped to go to the Plaza de Mercado Santurce for some salsa dancing.”

“I know a place…”

“Sounds good to me.  Whatever you suggest will be great.”

Minutes later he pulled up in front of a nondescript small red building.  Armando rolled down the passenger side window.  A young woman stepped down a few steps off of a small porch, and they spoke briefly together in Spanish.”  She nodded, and he turned around and looked at us.  

RESTAURANT JOSE ENRIQUE

“This place is Jose Enrique.  It will be perfect.  When you are done with dinner the Plaza de Mercado is one block away… that direction.  The place there on the corner is “the” place for salsa dancing.”

“How do we get back to the Sheraton?”

“I will give you my number.  You call me.  I will be here in less than 15 minutes.”

With that we were out of the van and our San Juan adventure began.

Dinner at the restaurant, Jose Enrique, was a delight.  Everything about it oozed “Puerto Rico”.  What a wonderful way to disconnect from all that was behind us, and be injected with the “Vacation” serum.  This was more than getting a bite to eat.  It was a baptism.  It was a different kind of air.  It was a different life rhythm.  It was don’t get in a hurry…

White board menus were brought to our table and explained in every delicious detail by a young Puerto Rican man who seemed as though he absolutely loved his job.  Our appetizer of choice was a most unbelievable taste treat.  I had never tasted anything like it.  Cangrejo : Crispy deep fried plantains stuffed with delicate crab salad with some sort of a veggie crunch; I suspect shredded jicama and carrots.  I would later learn from, Armando, our taxi driver, that this is a very common local Puerto Rican dish.  All I can say, it that Puerto Ricans must then thoroughly enjoy their food, for the Cangrejo were fabulous.

CANGREJO

Joni enjoyed Filete Empanado, a tender beef fillet, flattened, lightly breaded, and fried, and topped with two fried eggs; served with delicious, traditionally seasoned Caribbean rice and black beans.  I ordered Colirubia Deshuesada, de-boned whole Yellowtail served on a bed of smashed yams with mango and avocados.  Yellowtail is a lot like Red Snapper only way better.  It was wonderfully delicious; light and tender – perfectly fried.

FILETE EMPANADO

COLIRUBIA DESHUESADA

I wish that dessert could have lasted all night… Latinos must have something in their DNA that enables them to make Flan.   I want one day to go to Flan heaven.  Our waiter delivered to our table a small plate upon which were two gorgeous light, creamy yellow pieces of flan.  He explained that the reason for two pieces was that the two chefs back in kitchen were offering their grandmother’s flan recipes in a bit of friendly “Flan Competition”.  Both were delicately firm and exquisite… melt in your mouth delicious… caramelly (If that isn’t a word, it should be).  The Flan topped with thin sliced almonds had a bit more “traditional” flavor.  It’s all about personal preference, and both we amazingly delicious, but “traditional” won my vote.

THE BEST FLAN I'VE EVER TASTED

After almost 2 hrs. at Jose Enrique, we then joined the party on the street outside of the Plaza de Mercado.  Salsa dancing, smiling, laughing… enjoying life.  The music was live.  Our dance floor was an uneven brick paved street.  It was an amazing experience.

Suddenly… out of the darkness of a San Juan sky, it began to rain.  Joni and I ran for cover, first under the canvas awning of a corner Bar, and then just a short distance away, we were back where we started.  From the cover of the small front porch of Jose Enrique, we called Armando, and just as promised in less than 10 minutes he was back, with a smile, ready to return us to the Sheraton.